Interview with Plus-Sized model Ben Whit

Yesterday I went down to London to meet with Ben Whit - the UK's first plus-sized male model signed to Bridge model management. The purpose was to get photos and an interview to go towards creating a zine for uni, based on how plus-sized men are an under-represented consumer group. Here is the interview I had with him, followed by the images taken by Darren Black (a massive thank you to him for the help!):

1. Are there enough choices in the plus-sized market

No – especially more designer retailers, you get them to a certain size but its then very select, even normal highstreet stores you would be lucky to get anything over a 2XL. Or if you do, you’ll find they only have 2 or 3 and then they wont get any more in. It's quite a low selection if I am honest.

2. What are you favourite brands?

River Island. I use a lot of internet brands too. In store if I get them early enough I can get big enough sizes, clothes that fit. River island only just released it now (the plus sized collection) but I can usually get into a 2xl. Jeans and shorts are what I struggle with, I have quite big thighs so need to get ones with a bigger waist. If you don’t get them early enough in the year, shorts especially, so like now (march), come summer you just get the drabs that no one else wants!

3.Are there any brands you would like see start doing larger sizes?

Designer brands like ralph lauren – they do it wrong because their main range goes up to a 2xl and then they go to a 2xl Big which is just massive.They haven’t done the right cross over.

4.Do you find that these brands that do cater for the plus-sized market are fashionable enough?

Yes – I sometimes think that these brands don’t like seeing bigger people in their clothes but I think they do cater. Its quite stereotypical of people to think that they don’t make plus sized fashionable clothes but they do. I've found there is a lot of stereotyping. It’s the same with women’s fashion.

5.Do you think that is there a gap in the market? For instance, is it easy to get leisure wear but hard to get suits? Made to measure?

They concentrate most on tracksuits. Where as jeans and tshirts are just on the backburner, you don’t really get an option! A lot of shops are really casual. There are a lot of nice shirts though! It can be tough to get something that looks nice but that is in a bigger size.

6.Do you do most of your shopping online or in store?

Online, I do occasionally go into store to see if they have the size I need in store and then atleast I can try it on, but half the time, they wont have it in stock or they have to order it in – I may aswell just sit at home and do it.

7.Is this through choice or necessity?

Its not out of choice, if I could go into the shops and try it on I would but they just don’t always stock it. A lot of places will go up to an XL, so its just quite hard

8.Would you prefer for shops to have a section specifically for plus-sized in store? Like many do in the women’s section

Yeah I think they should, because the thing is a lot of people if they're plus sized they're obese, but a lot of lads I know that go to the gym they're big blokes and they would rather dress in clothes that actually properly fit, so I think they should have a highlighted section to say that these are starting at 2xl- for example, a 4xl and the jeans are starting at like a 38 – 44, that's what I think they should be doing. New look you see it a lot because they have the curve section which is size 18 upwards, but I think within the next year, year and a half, the plus sized industry will boom

9.If you could send out a message to designers and high-street retailers about catering for plus sized what would that message be?

They should have more of a variety – so actually have the sizes in stock and not have to order them in. because at the moment the average size in the UK is an XL anyway so they should be stockeing more because people are only getting bigger as country.

And sometimes, when they make the clothes they just throw it together and think because they're big it’ll fit, they need to be more care-taking

10. Why do you think there aren’t many plus sized male models?

It’s a new market, I think a lot of bigger blokes may feel a bit embarrassed because they may feel a bit uncomfortable with the way they look.Ive always said you can look fashionable no matter what size you are and ive always believed that. I think there will be more slowly, it just may take a while.

11. Do you think that plus-sized is a topic that is as widely discussed in fashion for men as it is women?

No not at the moment. Womens plus sized Is still miles ahead. It won't be long until the male side of plus sized comes through. (stigma) problem is a lot of companies do 'big and tall' and they combine it into one - but not everyones 'big and tall'. You might be big and short. So I think they should have a divide between them.

12.The current market trend is that menswear is a growing sector, do you think there is a need for the market to continue to grow?

Yeah definitely!

13. If you could create your own range of plus sized clothing what would be in it?

Tracksuit bottoms that fit – a lot of brands now sizes only go up to a 36 or 38. Skinny fit jeans are alright if they fit but skinny joggers, people my size aren’t going to wear that, so I would cater to what they want to get through and what people actually want.

14. Do you think there are any male fashion icons? And plus sized?

Rag and bone man. Bigger people - they don’t get recognised as much as someone who's say medium sized, there's a lot of medium sized out there!

15. Do you think that there is an assumption with men and specifically plus sized men that they don’t have an interest in fashion? Why?

They don’t really care a lot of bigger blokes, If they look alright they leave it, but theres a little amount of them that are my size that do care. Its more between say 30-45 who are the bigger blokes that just throw it on. I think that’s the problem because you’ve got the companies that are trendy that don’t cater to plus size for that reason. The younger generation don’t have enough options.

16.Do you have any top tips for plus-sized men on how to dress well?

Wear clothes that match your best featiures, if you have a big chest wear tight across the chest and loose against the stomach. So go for what your best assets are.

WHY DO WE IGNORE PLUS SIZED MENSWEAR?

"Modern menswear in primarily concerned with communicating individuality. A shift in attitude has encouraged the male consumer to undertake extreme measures to avoid conformity. Following the rule book is not the prescribed method in being stylish. Contemporary menswear provides men with the opportunity to express their individuality and this is now the greatest luxury available."

-Modern Menswear, Hywel Davies, Laurence King Publishing, 2008

The above interview is research for my current university project, part of which I am creating a zine based on an under-represemented consumer, I have chosen plus-sized men. A brief look at the subject and it would seem that it is a market that just isn't a hot topic like it is currently for women. It isn't hard to notice when you walk into high-street stores (River Island, New Look etc.) that sell both men, and womens clothing, that men are left to the back corner of the upper floor. The downstairs floor and main entrance, is more often than not, solely consumed by women's clothing.

Taking a trip to Meadowhall to gain some primary research, it was New Look that took my attention. I noticed the curve section, a section dedicated to women who are above a size 14. Their online site boast's that this section"brings you gorgeous fashion that doesn't stop at size 14! Get the look and feel fabulous, with our stylish range of dresses, jeans and tops which go up to size 28."

By all means a section that is a fabulous step forward for women's plus sized clothing, but when I ventured up to the mens section hoping to get some pictures for my research I was disappointed with all that was on offer. I saw no section dedicated to the plus-sized consumer, making a man that is looking for a larger size, shopping experience harder. This was a continuous theme as I researched online, unlike the women's section there was no way of directing straight to a section dedicated to the larger male consumer.

Filtering the sizing options I found 66 items available up to a size XXXL, although a positive within the search for mens plus sized clothing it is still very obvious that brands are not focusing any where near as much attention on the market for males as they are females.

Why is it that these high-street brands are assuming males do not want the option to 'shop by fit'?

This leads me to make the assumption that brands such as New Look have the attitude that male consumers are simply not as interested in fashion as women are. An attitude that certainly isn't the right one.

The image to the left shows a model within the New Look women's curve section.

The image below shows a model within the mens section, for an item which is available in their largest stocked size - an XXXL.

It is not hard to notice that the male is not a plus sized model. Again echoing my point that they are not heavily recognised as a consumer.

Following on from this, I found a big positive in my search for plus-sized mens clothing on my trip to Meadowhall, in the form of the new Jacamo store. My personal perception of the brand, based on TV adverts was that it wasn't particularly fashionable and to be completely honest I had imagined their store to not be very great. However, I was pleasantly surprised! The store was a big step up in terms of decor to the likes of Primark, USC, and the majority of the mens wear sections across the shopping centre. It was spacious, tasteful and had a clear layout - improving the consumer experience. Which is surely key criteria for creating a successful retail environment.

#plussized #model #photoshoot #fashion #London